December 30, 2015
The Great Marinade Debate: Armistice
from Chef George Sideras
I would like to say that all the points my learned associates have shared are strong and well-reasoned. My main point against marinades is that they do not impart much flavor without the use of phosphates and vacuum tumbling.
If you use a marinade that contains acid you can’t achieve any consistency over the day parts. Your proteins continue to change as they remain in the marinade, hence inconsistency. In my opinion, there are not many operators using tough proteins that would warrant this procedure. In addition, marinades are expensive (i.e. the cost of oil) and are wasteful due to the large volumes of marinades operators think they need. Whereas a wet rub is an immediate solution, marinades require time to work into the protein.
From a sensory perspective, a wet rub will provide more opportunity for nasal and retro nasal olfaction than a marinade as the aromatics volatize and react on the tongue and on the palate. Intense and high concentration of bases assure a stronger flavor experience.